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Outdoor · Edible Last verified Aug 11, 2026

Potato

Grow bags First-time growers Households with grazing pets Waterlogged soil

Solanum tuberosum, the potato, is a cool-season nightshade from the Andes grown for its underground storage tubers, planted from certified seed potatoes rather than seed and earthed up repeatedly so that new tubers form along the buried stem, never in daylight.

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    TL;DR

    Potatoes are grown from certified seed potatoes, planted 10-15cm deep and earthed up as the shoots grow so tubers stay in the dark. First earlies are ready in about 70 days, maincrops in 100-120. Expect 1-2kg per plant, and grow bags work well on a balcony. Critical safety point: green tubers and every green part of the plant contain solanine and are toxic. Never eat a greened potato, store the crop in complete darkness, and keep the foliage away from cats and dogs.

    Key facts

    • Green patches on a tuber mean solanine has formed. Solanine is toxic and is not destroyed by cooking, so greened potatoes must be discarded rather than peeled and used.
    • Grown from certified seed potatoes, not true seed; supermarket potatoes are sprout-inhibited and often carry disease, so they make a poor substitute.
    • Earthing up matters because tubers form along the buried stem. Leave them exposed to light and they green and turn toxic.
    • The foliage, flowers and green fruits are toxic to cats, dogs and livestock, as with all nightshades.
    70-120 days
    planting to harvest
    1-2kg
    yield per plant
    Green = toxic
    solanine in green parts
    Toxic foliage
    to cats & dogs

    Growing requirements#

    Plant typeOutdoor cool-season annual grown from seed tubers; frost-tender foliage
    Growing mediumLoose, free-draining, slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter; avoid fresh lime
    Light needsFull sun. 6+ hours daily for the foliage; tubers must stay in complete darkness
    Water frequencyEven moisture, especially from flowering onward when tubers are bulking; roughly 25mm a week
    Spacing30cm apart for earlies, 38-45cm for maincrops, with 60-75cm between rows
    Planting season (northern hemisphere)Plant earlies March, maincrops April to May, after the worst frosts
    Planting season (southern hemisphere)Plant August to October in most of Australia and New Zealand; autumn planting suits frost-free subtropics
    Temperature range15-20°C (60-68°F) is ideal; tuber formation slows badly above 27°C
    FertilizerBalanced feed at planting, then higher potassium as tubers bulk; excess nitrogen gives leaf and few potatoes
    Soil pH5.0-6.0: slightly acidic soil suppresses common scab
    Container suitabilityVery good. A 40L grow bag or bin holds 3-4 seed potatoes and yields 2-4kg; add compost as shoots grow
    HardinessGrown as an annual; foliage is killed by frost though tubers survive in the ground briefly
    ToxicityFoliage, flowers, green fruits and any green tuber contain solanine and are toxic to people, cats, dogs and livestock

    Harvest, yield & propagation#

    Days to harvestFirst earlies 70-90 days, second earlies 90-110, maincrops 100-120
    Yield per plant1-2kg for a well-grown maincrop; around 1kg for earlies
    Harvest signalEarlies once the flowers open; maincrops two to three weeks after the foliage has yellowed and died back
    Harvest techniqueLift with a fork inserted well outside the plant, on a dry day, and leave tubers on the surface for a few hours to dry
    Curing & storageCure maincrops 10-14 days at 12-15°C, then store in paper or hessian sacks in complete darkness at 4-10°C for 3-6 months. Never store in clear plastic or in light
    Edible partsTubers only, and only while they are free of any green. Leaves, stems, flowers and fruits are never eaten
    Propagation methodsCertified seed potatoes, chitted for 4-6 weeks in a cool bright spot before planting
    Companion plantsBeans, marigold and horseradish; keep well away from tomatoes, which share blight

    Common problems & troubleshooting#

    SymptomLikely causeFix
    Green patches on harvested tubersLight exposure in the ground or in storage, producing solanineDiscard affected tubers; do not peel and eat them. Prevent it by earthing up thoroughly and storing in complete darkness
    Brown-black blotches on leaves spreading fast in warm damp weatherLate blight (Phytophthora infestans)Cut off and remove all foliage immediately, then wait 2-3 weeks before lifting so spores on the soil surface die off
    Rough, corky scabs on the tuber skinCommon scab, worst in dry alkaline soilCosmetic only and still edible after peeling. Keep soil evenly moist during tuber formation and avoid liming the bed
    Tunnels bored through the tubersWireworm or slugs, common on newly broken grasslandLift maincrops earlier, avoid leaving them in the ground into late autumn, and rotate off recently turfed ground
    Leaves stripped by striped beetles and fat larvaeColorado potato beetle (in the Americas and parts of Europe)Hand-pick adults and crush the orange egg clusters on leaf undersides; use Bt or spinosad for heavy infestations
    Tall leafy plants but tiny tubersToo much nitrogen, or insufficient earthing upFeed high potassium rather than high nitrogen, and earth up whenever 15-20cm of shoot appears
    Coming soon

    Get a blight warning before the crop is lost

    Sodate watches your local humidity and temperature for the exact two-day window that triggers potato blight, so you can cut the haulm in time to save the tubers.

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    Seasonal care#

    Spring
    Chit seed potatoes in a cool bright spot, then plant out and start earthing up as shoots appear.
    Summer
    Water steadily through flowering, keep earthing up, and watch closely for blight in warm humid spells.
    Autumn
    Lift maincrops after the haulm dies back, cure for two weeks, then store in the dark.
    Winter
    Check stored tubers monthly, remove any that are soft or sprouting, and order certified seed potatoes early.

    Varieties & cultivars#

    VarietyDistinguishing traitNote
    'Charlotte'Second early, waxy salad potatoExcellent boiled, holds shape
    'Maris Piper'Maincrop, floury textureThe UK standard for chips and roasting
    'Yukon Gold'Early maincrop, yellow flesh, all-purposeNorth American favourite
    'Sarpo Mira'Maincrop with strong blight resistanceBest pick for wet summers
    'Dutch Cream'Large creamy-fleshed maincropPopular in Australia

    Buying checklist#

    • Buy certified seed potatoes, not supermarket potatoes, which are sprout-inhibited and can carry disease
    • Choose first early, second early or maincrop deliberately, based on how long you can leave the ground occupied
    • Look for firm tubers with small strong sprouts, not long white weak ones
    • Pick a blight-resistant variety if your summers are warm and wet
    • Reject any seed potato with soft rot, mould or green patches

    Pricing by region#

    RegionPrice rangeTypical unitBasis
    US$8 – $181-2kg bag of certified seed potatoesNursery + mail-order retail
    UK$5 – $131-2kg net of seed potatoesGarden centre retail
    India$0.6 – $1.81kg seed tubersAgri supply + local market
    Australia$8 – $171kg certified seed potatoesNursery + garden centre
    Canada$7 – $161-2kg certified seed potatoesGarden centre retail
    What drives the price: Certification statusBlight-resistant breedingHeritage / coloured varietiesBag weightOrganic certification

    USD figures are approximate conversions for comparison; switch the dropdown to see each region's actual local-currency listing price.

    Often confused with#

    Sweet potato (Ipomoea batatas): completely unrelated, in the morning glory family rather than the nightshade family. It is grown from slips instead of tubers and is frost-tender rather than cool-season.
    Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus): another tuber crop, but a sunflower relative with tall stems and yellow flowers, and knobbly tubers that are dug fresh rather than stored dry.
    Black nightshade (Solanum nigrum): a common weed in the same genus that can appear in potato beds; its small dark berries should not be eaten casually.

    Name confusion warning#

    !

    Do not confuse potato with sweet potato. They are in different plant families and grow in completely different ways. In India "aloo" always means potato and sweet potato is "shakarkandi"; in parts of the US southern states sweet potatoes are confusingly labelled "yams", which is a third, different plant again. Also note that "seed potato" means a tuber for planting, not actual seed.

    Where it's actually grown#

    Seed potatoes for gardeners come from certified schemes in cool, aphid-free regions, notably Scotland, the Netherlands, Canada's Maritime provinces, Idaho and Tasmania, where virus pressure is low enough to keep stock clean over successive multiplications. This is the whole reason certified seed exists: potatoes accumulate viruses through their tubers, so the industry constantly refreshes stock from high-latitude nurseries rather than letting growers save their own indefinitely.

    Import & biosecurity restrictions#

    RegionNote
    AustraliaSeed potato imports are effectively prohibited and even interstate movement is restricted; buy certified stock domestically.
    USState-level quarantines apply to seed potato movement; buy certified seed within your state where possible.
    UKCertified seed potatoes are widely sold; post-Brexit imports from the EU require phytosanitary certification.
    IndiaDomestic certified seed is supplied through state agriculture departments; imports need quarantine clearance.
    CanadaCFIA regulates seed potato certification and interprovincial movement; use certified domestic stock.

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    Did you know?

    The potato reached Europe in the late 1500s and was met with deep suspicion for two centuries, partly because it was an obviously poisonous-looking nightshade with no mention in the Bible. Frederick the Great of Prussia eventually resorted to reverse psychology: he planted royal potato fields, posted guards around them to suggest enormous value, and quietly instructed those guards to let locals steal the tubers.

    Frequently asked questions

    Are green potatoes poisonous?

    Yes. Green colouring indicates solanine, a toxic glycoalkaloid that forms when tubers are exposed to light. Cooking does not destroy it, so green potatoes should be thrown away rather than peeled and eaten. Store your crop in complete darkness to prevent it.

    Why do I need to earth up potatoes?

    New tubers form along the buried section of stem. Earthing up gives them more dark soil to develop in, increases the yield, and stops tubers near the surface from being exposed to light and turning green and toxic.

    Can I plant potatoes from the supermarket?

    It is a poor idea. Supermarket potatoes are usually treated with sprout inhibitors and are not screened for the viruses and diseases that certified seed potatoes are. Certified seed costs little and avoids importing blight and virus into your soil.

    Are potato plants toxic to cats and dogs?

    Yes. The leaves, stems, flowers and green fruits contain solanine and are toxic to cats, dogs and livestock. Cooked, non-green tubers are safe, but keep pets away from the foliage and from any greened potatoes.

    How many potatoes does one plant produce?

    Typically one to two kilograms for a healthy maincrop plant, and around one kilogram for an early variety. A 40 litre grow bag with three or four seed potatoes will usually give two to four kilograms.

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