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TL;DR
This is a method page for growing a climbing philodendron mounted rather than potted. Tie the stem to a cork slab or board over a damp sphagnum pad so the aerial roots grip the surface, keep humidity above 60%, and water every 1-3 days. A mount dries far faster than a pot. Mounting is what unlocks the large mature leaf forms. Philodendrons are toxic to cats and dogs. For standard potted care see /plants/indoor/philodendron.
Key facts
- Climbing philodendrons are hemiepiphytes that spend their adult life attached to bark, which is why mounting suits them.
- Aerial roots grip the mount and feed from the moss pad; a climbing plant with somewhere to attach produces far larger adult leaves.
- A mounted philodendron dries several times faster than the same plant in a pot, so watering every 1-3 days is normal.
- Tie the stem with soft cord or plant velcro; adhesive should only ever touch the moss or board, never a node or aerial root.
- All philodendrons contain calcium oxalate and are toxic to cats and dogs if chewed.
No pot
board-mounted culture
1-3 days
typical watering interval
Toxic
to cats & dogs
$25-70
typical US mounted price
Care requirements#
| Growing method | Mounted: stem tied to a slab with a sphagnum pad, no pot and no potting soil |
| Mounting substrate | Cork bark, a cedar or hardwood plank, or a tree fern slab; cork holds up best to constant wetting |
| Moss pad | A generous, evenly damp sphagnum layer down the length of the mount, which is what the aerial roots feed into |
| Wire vs glue | Soft nylon cord, plant velcro or fishing line across the stem between nodes. Glue may anchor moss to the board only, never a node or aerial root |
| Light needs | Bright indirect light; direct sun scorches leaves and dries the pad within hours |
| Watering method | Drench the whole mount or mist the pad heavily until it is saturated, letting excess run off |
| Soak-vs-mist schedule | Every 1-3 days. Far more often than a potted philodendron. Daily misting of the moss keeps aerial roots active between drenches |
| How to judge thirst | Squeeze the moss pad: springy and cool means fine, hard and light means water now |
| Air circulation | Gentle air movement is good, but a fan or draught aimed at the mount dries the pad far too fast |
| Humidity | 60%+ for mounted culture to work well; below 50% aerial roots shrivel instead of gripping |
| Temperature range | 18-29°C (65-85°F); keep away from radiators and cold glass |
| Fertilizer | Quarter-strength balanced liquid feed applied to the moss pad every 2-3 weeks in spring and summer |
| Toxicity | Toxic to cats and dogs. Calcium oxalate crystals cause oral pain, drooling and swelling if chewed |
Growth & propagation#
| Mature size | Climbs the length of the mount and beyond; leaf size increases markedly as it climbs |
| Growth rate | Fast in warmth and humidity, and noticeably faster mounted than potted once roots grip |
| Leaf maturation | Mounting triggers the shift to adult leaf form, which is why collectors mount rather than trail |
| Propagation methods | Stem cuttings with at least one node and an aerial root, tied straight onto a new moss pad |
| Propagation difficulty | Easy: nodes root into damp sphagnum within a few weeks |
| Remounting schedule | Every 1-2 years as the sphagnum breaks down and stops holding water |
Common problems & troubleshooting#
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Leaves yellow and stem softens at the base | The moss pad was kept sodden with no drainage or airflow | Let the pad dry back between waterings, improve air movement, and cut away any rotted stem |
| Aerial roots shrivel and never grip the mount | Humidity too low, or the moss pad dried out repeatedly | Raise humidity above 60%, mist the pad daily, and tuck the aerial roots into the moss |
| New leaves stay small after mounting | Insufficient light or nutrition, or the plant has not yet attached | Give brighter indirect light and feed the pad regularly; leaf size increases only once roots are gripping and climbing |
| Plant peels away from the board | Tied too loosely, or tied over leaves rather than the stem | Retie across the stem between nodes so the nodes press into the moss |
| Brown crispy leaf edges | Dry air, the classic failure of mounted aroids in heated rooms | Move to a more humid room or add a humidifier; misting leaves alone is not enough |
Coming soon
Learn more →
A slab dries in a day, a pot takes a week
Sodate learns how fast your mount really dries and prompts you before the moss pad goes hard.
Seasonal care#
Spring
Growth restarts: remount now if the moss has broken down, and resume regular feeding of the pad.Summer
Fastest growth and fastest drying; water daily in hot weather and keep the mount out of direct sun.Autumn
Ease off feeding as growth slows, but keep the pad damp before household heating starts.Winter
The hardest season for mounted aroids. Heating dries the pad quickly while light is poor, so check the moss daily and keep humidity up.Varieties & cultivars#
| Variety | Distinguishing trait | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Philodendron hederaceum (heartleaf) | Small heart-shaped leaves, very tolerant | The easiest philodendron to mount for a first attempt |
| Philodendron gloriosum | Creeping rhizome, velvety white-veined leaves | Crawls rather than climbs; better on a flat horizontal moss tray than a vertical board |
| Philodendron melanochrysum | Velvet black-green leaves that enlarge dramatically when climbing | The classic case for mounting, but needs high humidity |
| Philodendron 'Brasil' | Variegated heartleaf form | Mounts well and shows off trailing and climbing habits |
Buying checklist#
- If buying pre-mounted, check the stem is tied and not glued at the nodes
- Aerial roots are plump and already entering the moss pad
- Moss pad is generous and springy rather than thin and decomposed
- Board is cork, cedar or tree fern rather than plain softwood that will rot
Pricing by region#
| Region | Price range | Typical unit | Basis |
|---|---|---|---|
| US | $25 – $70 | mounted plant | Plant shop + maker-mounted online |
| UK | $28 – $80 | mounted plant | Specialist plant shop |
| India | $8 – $30 | mounted plant | Urban nursery retail |
| Australia | $28 – $75 | mounted plant | Nursery + specialist retail |
| Canada | $30 – $80 | mounted plant | Plant shop + online |
What drives the price: Species (velvet-leaved types cost far more)Mounting labour and cork qualityPlant size and number of nodesBuying a potted plant and mounting it yourself is much cheaper
USD figures are approximate conversions for comparison; switch the dropdown to see each region's actual local-currency listing price.
Often confused with#
Monstera species: Also hemiepiphytic climbers mounted the same way, but with fenestrated (holed) adult leaves; philodendron leaves stay entire in most common species.
Epipremnum (pothos): Mounts identically and looks similar young, but pothos leaves are thicker and glossier with an unnotched leaf base.
Where it's actually grown#
Philodendrons are produced from tissue culture and cuttings by nurseries in Florida, the Netherlands, Costa Rica and Southeast Asia as potted stock; mounted plants are almost always potted nursery plants remounted by small makers or hobbyists.
Import & biosecurity restrictions#
| Region | Note |
|---|---|
| Australia | Live plant imports restricted under biosecurity law; philodendrons are widely available domestically. |
| US | No restriction on domestic sale; philodendrons are standard nursery crops. |
| UK | Imports need phytosanitary paperwork; sold in every garden centre domestically. |
| India | No restriction; mounted culture works well in humid coastal cities and poorly in dry heat. |
| Canada | CFIA permits required for commercial imports; potted stock is ubiquitous at retail. |
Similar plants
Did you know?
Some climbing philodendrons are 'skototropic' as seedlings: instead of growing towards light like most plants, they grow towards darkness, because the darkest patch on a rainforest floor is the shadow of a big trunk worth climbing. Once they reach the bark and start climbing, they switch to growing towards light like everything else.
Frequently asked questions
Can you grow a philodendron mounted without a pot?
Yes. Climbing philodendrons are hemiepiphytes that live attached to bark in the wild, so a cork or board slab with a damp sphagnum pad suits them well.
How often do you water a mounted philodendron?
Every 1-3 days. A mount dries several times faster than a pot, so judge by squeezing the moss pad rather than following a weekly schedule.
Should I glue or tie a philodendron to its mount?
Tie it with soft cord, plant velcro or fishing line across the stem between nodes. Glue must never touch a node or aerial root. It kills the tissue that needs to grip.
Is a mounted philodendron safe for pets?
No. All philodendrons contain calcium oxalate crystals and are toxic to cats and dogs if chewed, mounted or potted.
Where can I read normal potted philodendron care?
The standard potted guide, including soil mix and repotting, is at /plants/indoor/philodendron.
