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Outdoor · Edible Last verified Aug 11, 2026

Strawberry

Containers & baskets Small gardens Deep shade Heavy waterlogged soil

Fragaria × ananassa, the garden strawberry, is a low-growing hardy perennial created in 18th-century France by crossing a Virginian and a Chilean species, grown for sweet aggregate fruit and one of the very few crops that spreads itself for free by sending out runners.

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    TL;DR

    Strawberries come in two useful types: June-bearing, which gives one heavy crop in early summer, and everbearing or day-neutral, which trickles fruit from early summer to autumn. Plant with the crown exactly at soil level, mulch with straw to keep fruit off the ground, and expect 250-500g per plant per season. Plants propagate free from runners but decline after 3-4 years, so replace them on rotation. Non-toxic to cats and dogs.

    Key facts

    • June-bearing varieties crop heavily over 2-3 weeks; everbearing and day-neutral types spread a smaller total yield across the whole season.
    • Propagates itself by runners, so a bed of a dozen plants can replace itself indefinitely for free.
    • The crown must sit exactly at soil level. Buried crowns rot and exposed crowns dry out, and this is the most common planting error.
    • Plants lose vigour after 3-4 years, so productive beds are kept going by rooting runners and discarding the oldest mothers.
    60-90 days
    planting to first fruit
    250-500g
    yield per plant/season
    3-4 years
    productive plant life
    Non-toxic
    to cats & dogs

    Growing requirements#

    Plant typeOutdoor hardy perennial groundcover; also excellent in containers, baskets and towers
    Growing mediumFree-draining, compost-rich soil or quality potting mix; never heavy waterlogged clay
    Light needsFull sun for best sweetness. 6-8 hours; tolerates light afternoon shade in hot climates
    Water frequencyConsistent moisture, roughly 25mm a week; water at the base to keep fruit and crown dry
    Spacing30-45cm between plants, 60-75cm between rows; 3-4 plants per 30cm hanging basket
    Planting season (northern hemisphere)Bare-root or potted plants in early spring (March-April) or late summer (August-September)
    Planting season (southern hemisphere)Plant runners in autumn, April to June, for a spring crop in Australia and New Zealand
    Temperature range15-26°C (60-80°F) for fruiting; hardy to around -15°C when dormant and mulched
    FertilizerBalanced feed in early spring, then a high-potassium tomato-style feed fortnightly once flowering begins
    Soil pH5.5-6.8 (slightly acidic)
    Container suitabilityExcellent. Ideal in baskets, troughs and towers, where hanging fruit stays clean and away from slugs
    HardinessPerennial in most temperate zones; mulch the crowns over hard winters
    ToxicityNon-toxic to cats and dogs; leaves and fruit are both safe

    Harvest, yield & propagation#

    Days to harvest60-90 days from spring planting; autumn-planted runners crop the following early summer
    Yield per plant250-500g per season for a healthy second-year plant
    Cropping typesJune-bearing (one heavy early-summer flush), everbearing (two or three flushes), day-neutral (steady light picking all season)
    Harvest signalFully red right to the shoulders under the calyx; strawberries do not sweeten after picking
    Harvest techniquePinch the stem above the fruit rather than pulling the berry, and pick every 2-3 days in warm weather
    StorageOnly 2-3 days refrigerated, unwashed. Freeze whole on a tray or make jam for longer keeping
    Propagation methodsRunners: peg a plantlet into a small pot of compost, let it root for 4-6 weeks, then sever it from the mother
    Companion plantsBorage, thyme and chives nearby; avoid planting where potatoes or tomatoes grew (shared verticillium wilt)

    Common problems & troubleshooting#

    SymptomLikely causeFix
    Fruit rotting with fuzzy grey mouldBotrytis grey mould in damp weather or with fruit touching soilMulch with straw, thin congested leaves for airflow, pick daily, and remove infected fruit immediately rather than composting it
    Berries eaten or hollowed overnightSlugs and snails, or birdsGrow in baskets or on straw, use slug traps or wool pellets, and net the bed as the fruit starts colouring
    Lots of leaves and runners but very little fruitToo much nitrogen, or plant energy going into runnersSwitch to a high-potassium feed and cut off runners during the fruiting period
    Plant collapses, roots red-cored when cut openRed stele or crown rot from waterlogged soilNo cure. Remove plants, improve drainage or move to raised beds and containers, and plant resistant varieties
    Distorted, seedy, 'cat-faced' fruitIncomplete pollination, or tarnished plant bug damageEncourage bees with nearby borage, avoid spraying during flowering, and hand-brush flowers with a soft brush under cover
    Small, sour berries in the third or fourth yearNatural plant declineRoot new runners each summer and discard the oldest mother plants on a rolling three-year cycle
    Coming soon

    Know which runners to keep and which to cut

    Sodate tracks each plant's age and cropping type, then tells you when to root runners for next year and when to cut them off so this year's fruit gets the energy.

    Learn more →

    Seasonal care#

    Spring
    Clear old leaves and mulch, feed, and lay fresh straw under the plants as flowers appear.
    Summer
    Peak fruiting. Pick every 2-3 days, net against birds, and cut runners off unless you want new plants.
    Autumn
    Root and separate runners for next season, tidy dead foliage, and plant new bare-root stock.
    Winter
    Dormant. Mulch crowns in cold regions, and move containers against a wall so roots do not freeze solid.

    Varieties & cultivars#

    VarietyDistinguishing traitNote
    'Honeoye'Early June-bearing, heavy reliable cropGood for freezing and jam
    'Cambridge Favourite'Mid-season June-bearing, disease-tolerantLong-standing UK favourite
    'Albion'Day-neutral, firm sweet fruit all seasonExcellent in containers
    'Seascape'Everbearing, tolerates heat wellPopular in warmer US and Australian gardens
    Alpine strawberry (Fragaria vesca)Tiny intense berries, no runnersGrows true from seed, ideal for edging

    Buying checklist#

    • Decide June-bearing (one big crop for jam) or everbearing/day-neutral (steady picking) before you buy
    • Choose certified virus-free stock; strawberry viruses spread easily through runners
    • On potted plants, look for a firm crown with fresh white roots, not brown mushy ones
    • Bare-root runners should be plump, not dried and papery
    • Buy at least 8-12 plants. A few plants will not produce a meaningful picking

    Pricing by region#

    RegionPrice rangeTypical unitBasis
    US$8 – $20Bundle of 10-25 bare-root runnersNursery + mail-order retail
    UK$8 – $18Pack of 10-12 bare-root runnersGarden centre retail
    India$1.2 – $4Pack of 10 runnersNursery + online agri retail
    Australia$10 – $22Bundle of 10-20 runnersNursery + garden centre
    Canada$9 – $20Bundle of 10-25 bare-root runnersGarden centre retail
    What drives the price: Certified virus-free stockBare-root bundle vs individual potted plantsEverbearing vs June-bearing breedingPatented modern varietiesOrganic certification

    USD figures are approximate conversions for comparison; switch the dropdown to see each region's actual local-currency listing price.

    Often confused with#

    Mock strawberry (Potentilla indica): a common lawn weed with yellow flowers instead of white and upward-facing tasteless red fruit; harmless but not worth eating.
    Wild / alpine strawberry (Fragaria vesca): a genuine strawberry with much smaller, intensely aromatic fruit; it usually produces no runners and can be raised from seed.
    Barren strawberry (Potentilla sterilis): looks near-identical in leaf but never sets edible fruit at all.

    Name confusion warning#

    !

    Check "everbearing" against your actual expectations. The term is used loosely: in some catalogues it means two or three distinct flushes, in others it is used interchangeably with day-neutral, which fruits steadily but lightly. If you want one big harvest for jam, buy a June-bearing variety explicitly. Note also that in the southern hemisphere "June-bearing" describes the plant's physiology, not the month, and those varieties actually crop in spring.

    Where it's actually grown#

    Strawberry plants sold to gardeners are almost never grown from seed. Commercial propagators in the US (mainly California), Spain, the Netherlands and Poland raise certified virus-free mother plants in isolated nurseries and multiply them by runners, then ship them as bare-root runners or cold-stored plugs. Buying certified stock matters more with strawberries than most crops because the viruses that gradually reduce yields are carried within the plant itself.

    Import & biosecurity restrictions#

    RegionNote
    AustraliaLive strawberry plant imports are tightly restricted under biosecurity law; buy certified runners from domestic nurseries.
    USInterstate movement of plants may need state phytosanitary certificates; domestic nursery purchase is straightforward.
    UKPlant imports need phytosanitary documentation post-Brexit; domestic certified runners are widely available.
    IndiaGrown commercially in Mahabaleshwar and Himachal; imported planting material requires quarantine clearance.
    CanadaCFIA import permits apply to plant material; domestic certified stock is the practical route.

    Similar plants

    Did you know?

    A strawberry is not botanically a berry, and the red part is not the fruit. The fleshy red tissue is swollen flower receptacle, and each of the roughly 200 tiny yellow specks on the surface is a separate individual fruit called an achene, with its own seed inside. So one strawberry is technically a couple of hundred fruits stuck to a swollen stem tip.

    Frequently asked questions

    What is the difference between June-bearing and everbearing strawberries?

    June-bearing varieties respond to shortening days and produce one heavy crop over about two to three weeks in early summer, which is what you want for jam. Everbearing and day-neutral varieties fruit in smaller amounts repeatedly from early summer into autumn, which suits picking a handful at a time.

    How do I propagate strawberries from runners?

    In summer, find a runner with a small plantlet, peg it down into a pot of compost while still attached to the mother plant, keep it moist for four to six weeks until it roots, then cut the runner. Do this every year and replace mother plants after three to four years.

    How deep should I plant a strawberry crown?

    The crown must sit exactly at soil level. Buried crowns rot and exposed crowns dry out, and getting this wrong is the single most common reason new strawberry plants fail.

    Can strawberries grow in containers?

    Yes, they are one of the best container fruits. Hanging baskets and towers work especially well because the fruit dangles clear of the soil, which keeps it clean and out of reach of slugs.

    Are strawberry plants safe for cats and dogs?

    Yes. Both the leaves and the fruit are non-toxic to cats and dogs, though large amounts of fruit can cause mild stomach upset in a dog simply from the sugar.

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