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Outdoor · Edible Last verified Aug 11, 2026

Kale

Winter harvests Cut-and-come-again Unnetted brassica beds Hot dry summers

Brassica oleracea in its kale forms is the hardiest common leafy vegetable, standing through frost and snow that finish most crops. Cold actually improves it: freezing triggers the plant to convert starches to sugars, so kale picked after a hard frost is measurably sweeter.

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    TL;DR

    Kale is a cut-and-come-again brassica that crops right through winter, and it genuinely gets sweeter after frost, because cold makes the plant convert stored starch into sugars as antifreeze. Sow in late spring or summer for an autumn and winter harvest, space plants 45cm apart, and pick outer leaves from the bottom while the growing tip keeps producing. It is non-toxic to cats and dogs, and needs netting against cabbage white butterflies.

    Key facts

    • Frost improves the flavour. Cold triggers starch-to-sugar conversion as a natural antifreeze, so kale picked after a hard frost tastes noticeably sweeter and less bitter.
    • Cut-and-come-again: pick the lowest outer leaves and the central growing point keeps producing for months, often six months from one plant.
    • The same species as cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and kohlrabi, all selected from one wild Mediterranean cabbage.
    • One of very few crops that reliably feeds a garden through midwinter in temperate climates.
    55-75 days
    sowing to first pick
    6 months
    picking from one plant
    Sweeter
    after frost
    Non-toxic
    to cats & dogs

    Growing requirements#

    Plant typeOutdoor hardy biennial grown as an annual; the toughest common leaf vegetable
    Growing mediumFirm, fertile soil with plenty of organic matter; brassicas dislike loose fluffy ground
    Light needsFull sun to part shade. 6 hours ideal, tolerates 4
    Water frequencyAround 25mm a week; consistent moisture keeps leaves tender rather than tough and bitter
    Spacing45cm between plants, 45-60cm between rows; 20cm for baby-leaf salad kale
    Sowing season (northern hemisphere)Sow April to July for autumn and winter picking; sow again in early spring for a summer crop
    Sowing season (southern hemisphere)Sow January to April in Australia and New Zealand for a winter harvest
    Temperature range7-24°C (45-75°F); survives to around -12°C and improves in flavour below freezing
    FertilizerNitrogen-hungry. Feed with a high-nitrogen liquid feed every 3-4 weeks during active growth
    Soil pH6.0-7.5; slightly limed soil helps suppress clubroot
    Container suitabilityGood. One plant per 25-30cm pot, or sow baby-leaf kale densely in a trough
    HardinessVery hardy, reliably standing through frost and snow to around -12°C
    ToxicityNon-toxic to cats and dogs; safe in normal garden quantities

    Harvest, yield & propagation#

    Days to harvest55-75 days to first full leaves; 25-30 days for baby-leaf salad kale
    Yield per plantAround 0.5-1kg of leaves picked progressively over several months
    Harvest signalOuter leaves the size of a hand. For best flavour, wait until after the first frost of autumn
    Harvest techniqueSnap or cut the lowest outer leaves and leave the central growing point intact, taking no more than a third of the plant at a time
    StorageRefrigerate leaves in a bag for 5-7 days. Blanch and freeze for 8-12 months, or simply leave plants standing outside and pick as needed
    Edible partsLeaves at any size, plus the tender flowering shoots in spring, which cook like sprouting broccoli
    Propagation methodsSeed, direct sown or raised in modules and transplanted at the 4-5 leaf stage; firm the soil well around transplants
    Companion plantsOnions, nasturtium as a trap crop, and aromatic herbs; keep away from other brassicas to slow pest build-up

    Common problems & troubleshooting#

    SymptomLikely causeFix
    Leaves stripped to the veins by green caterpillarsCabbage white butterfly larvaeCover with fine insect mesh from the day of planting, and pick off caterpillars and the yellow egg clusters on leaf undersides
    Dense grey clusters on stems and leaf undersidesMealy cabbage aphidBlast off with water, squash colonies early, encourage ladybirds, and remove badly infested leaves before winter
    Plants stunted with wilting leaves and swollen distorted rootsClubroot, a persistent soil-borne diseaseNo cure. Lime the soil toward pH 7, rotate brassicas on a long cycle, raise plants in large modules first, and use resistant varieties
    Plants rocking loose and leaning overWind rock on tall winter plants in loose soilPlant firmly, earth up the stems, and stake tall varieties like cavolo nero before winter gales
    Tough, bitter leavesDrought stress, or leaves left on the plant far too longWater consistently, mulch, and harvest leaves at hand size rather than letting them go leathery
    Tiny shot holes across young leavesFlea beetles, worst on seedlings in dry spellsUse insect mesh over young plants and keep the soil moist; established plants shrug the damage off
    Coming soon

    Pick after the frost, not before

    Sodate watches your local frost forecast and tells you when a cold night has passed through, which is precisely when kale is at its sweetest.

    Learn more →

    Seasonal care#

    Spring
    Sow early modules for summer picking, and harvest the sweet flowering shoots from overwintered plants before they bolt fully.
    Summer
    Sow the main crop for autumn and winter, keep plants watered, and net rigorously against cabbage whites.
    Autumn
    Feed and firm plants in, earth up stems, and start picking. Flavour improves markedly after the first frost.
    Winter
    Keep picking outer leaves through frost and snow. Remove yellowing lower leaves so aphids have nowhere to shelter.

    Varieties & cultivars#

    VarietyDistinguishing traitNote
    'Cavolo Nero' / LacinatoDark blue-green strappy leaves, Italian black kaleVery hardy, excellent texture
    'Dwarf Green Curled'Compact tightly curled leavesReliable and wind-resistant
    'Redbor'Deep purple curly foliageOrnamental as well as edible
    'Red Russian'Flat, tender, red-stemmed leavesBest kale for eating raw in salads
    'Siberian' kaleExtremely cold-hardy, broad leavesWithstands the harshest winters

    Buying checklist#

    • Decide curly, flat-leaf or cavolo nero. The textures suit very different cooking
    • Choose clubroot-resistant varieties if your plot has grown brassicas repeatedly
    • For raw salads, choose a tender flat-leaf type like 'Red Russian'
    • Buy seed rather than plants where possible; kale germinates easily and transplants well from modules
    • Check hardiness rating if you want genuine midwinter picking rather than an autumn crop

    Pricing by region#

    RegionPrice rangeTypical unitBasis
    US$2 – $4.5Seed packet (~200-500 seeds)Seed catalogue + garden centre
    UK$1.8 – $4Seed packet (~300 seeds)Garden centre retail
    India$0.3 – $1Seed packet (~200 seeds)Online seed retail + nursery
    Australia$2.5 – $5Seed packet (~200 seeds) or 6-cell seedling punnetNursery + seed retail
    Canada$2 – $4.5Seed packet (~300 seeds)Garden centre retail
    What drives the price: Hybrid vs open-pollinatedClubroot-resistant breedingColoured / ornamental varietiesSeed count per packetSeedling punnet vs seed

    USD figures are approximate conversions for comparison; switch the dropdown to see each region's actual local-currency listing price.

    Often confused with#

    Collard greens (Brassica oleracea var. viridis): the same species with broad flat leaves rather than curled ones; grown and cooked almost identically, and often sold interchangeably.
    Ornamental kale / flowering cabbage: the same species bred for pink and white rosettes in winter bedding. Technically edible but bred for looks, so it is tough and bitter.
    Swiss chard: another leafy staple often confused in seedling trays, but it is Beta vulgaris rather than a brassica, and has smooth leaves with thick coloured stems.

    Name confusion warning#

    !

    Kale, collards, cabbage and broccoli are all one species. They are all Brassica oleracea, separated only by which part was selected. Leaves, buds, stem or flower head. Practically, this means they share every major pest and disease, so they must be rotated as a single group rather than treated as different crops. Note too that "ornamental kale" sold for winter bedding is the same species but bred for colour, not eating.

    Where it's actually grown#

    Kale seed is produced mainly in the Netherlands, Denmark, Italy and the US Pacific Northwest, all regions with the dry late summers that biennial brassica seed crops need to ripen. Because all Brassica oleracea forms cross-pollinate freely with one another, commercial seed fields require large isolation distances, which is why home-saved kale seed so often grows into something halfway to a cabbage.

    Import & biosecurity restrictions#

    RegionNote
    AustraliaBrassica seed imports need an import permit and phytosanitary certificate; domestic packets and seedlings are freely sold.
    USDomestic sale unrestricted; imported seed may need a USDA small-lots-of-seed permit.
    UKHome-garden seed packets sold freely; commercial imports require phytosanitary documentation.
    IndiaGrown mainly in hill states and cooler seasons; imported seed requires customs clearance.
    CanadaCFIA rules apply to commercial seed lots; home-garden packets normally clear without issue.

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    Did you know?

    Kale tasting better after a frost is real chemistry, not gardening folklore. When temperatures drop below freezing, the plant breaks stored starch down into soluble sugars, which lower the freezing point of its cell sap and stop ice crystals from bursting the cells. The plant is producing antifreeze to save itself, and the side effect is a sweeter leaf on your plate.

    Frequently asked questions

    Does kale really taste better after frost?

    Yes, and it is measurable. Freezing temperatures make the plant convert starch into sugars as a natural antifreeze, so the leaves become noticeably sweeter and less bitter. Where you can, delay the main picking until after your first hard frost.

    How do I harvest kale so it keeps producing?

    Pick the lowest outer leaves and leave the central growing point untouched, never taking more than about a third of the plant at once. Done this way, a single plant can be picked repeatedly for six months.

    When should I sow kale?

    In the northern hemisphere sow April to July for autumn and winter cropping. In the southern hemisphere sow January to April for a winter harvest. Kale is deliberately timed to mature into cold weather, not out of it.

    Is kale toxic to cats or dogs?

    No. Kale is non-toxic to cats and dogs in normal garden amounts. Very large quantities of any brassica can cause gas or mild stomach upset, but the plant in your bed poses no real hazard.

    Why are my kale leaves full of holes?

    Almost certainly cabbage white caterpillars, or flea beetles if the holes are tiny and shot-like. Fine insect mesh laid over the crop from planting day is far more effective than trying to control either pest after the fact.

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